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24-09-2004, 05:30 PM
This beast of a CPU cooler has been tempting me for a long time, with its sleek looks and shiny exterior. But I was in two minds whether to buy it, after it was discontinued at ebuyer, and the reviews of it are a mixed opinion. Some say it cooled magnificently, some say they were better off with their stock cooler.
http://img50.exs.cx/img50/8007/Jet7ge_s.jpg
- Socket Type: Socket A, 370, 462
- Heat Sink Dimension: 74x60x40 mm
- Heat Sink Material: Copper base with Copper stacked fin
- Fan Dimension: Blower 80x80x80 mm
- Fan Speed: 1900-3500 rpm
- Fan Airflow: 12.0-22.1 CFM
- Fan Air Pressure 3.15-10.70 mm H2O
- Cost: £20 - Can you believe it?
Well, I convinced myself to fork the £20 out to buy one, and when it came, I was in for another surprise, this thing was huuuge, much bigger than I had assumed. At least 15cm tall.
After a short (30 minute) wrestle with the old heatsink and fan, I managed to escape with only 2 badly cut thumbs and a broken screwdriver. Nevermind, it was off. I cleaned my processor, an AMD barton xp2800+, and applied some high(ish) quality thermal compound (I couldn’t get any of the arctic silver stuff, I had to stick with 'GelL' compound or something - I don’t know, it was 5% copper and 5% silver and stained my hand like a bitch) Anyway, I smeared the paste on in a nice thin layer and then turned to the new cooler.
The bottom of the heatsink was perfectly flat, with a few light grooves in, where it had been machined down. All I had to do was rub in some thermal paste, and it couldnt have gotten any better.
I had the initiative to remove the jet from the actual heatsink section, to allow easy maneuvering onto the socket. Which proved a good idea, but still, because the heatsink section spreads out so it is a larger surface area at the top than the bottom, it was still very difficult to latch onto the rear clip, due to some badly placed capacitors in that region on my motherboard (Asus A7V600). One I got that clip in, the other one clipped in pretty easily, although the metal clip running through the heatsink is now bent, but I think that is the way it should be.
Anyway, once the heatsink was on, it was a simple (or not so simple) matter of lowering the screws on a magnetic screwdriver back down onto the jet module, and screwing it down. Unfortunately I could't find a magnetic screwdriver, and so turned to my oh-so trusty swiss army knife to screw the jet on, which proved to be a bad idea, as one screw escaped my grasp and fell behind the motherboard. Meaning the entire motherboard had to be unscrewed to find that one screw.
Once I had secured the jet onto the heatsink, I had another problem with power. Instead of clipping into the normal 3 pin connector on the motherboard, the Jet7 used a molex connector for power, of which I am very limited, and the 3 pin connector purely for the signal (yellow) wire to relay the current rpm. Once I had dug out a molex Y-Splitter (the passthrough cable supplied wasn't going to do anything) I had power.
The Jet7 also comes with a variable resistor, to alter the RPM of the fan, from slightly audible to 'is that your computer I can hear from downstairs Tom?'
It also comes with a 3.5" floppy bay connector, or a PCI plate connector. I opted for the PCI connector as my Arctic VGA Cooler's RPM switch is also located at the back of the machine. This was also pretty easy to connect. It just involved a bit of screwing (teehee), and it was in. The one problem I have however, is the plate, no matter how much I screw :rolleyes:, is still loose, and wobbles a bit when pressure is applied.
The idea of me getting this was to overclock a little to improve performances in Counterstrike:Source, and Doom3. I have a Sapphire Atlantis Radeon 9800pro, with an Arctic VGA cooler, which is clocked at 427/353, from the default 380/330. My processor was clearly bottlenecking this, and so I sought to overclock, using the best air cooler I could find.
This is precisely what this does, My processor (for those who weren't paying attention earlier, is an AMD barton xp2800+) was clocked at 2075MHz, and yielded 5119 3DMarks (2003), which is still a pretty nice result. And it ran at around 70C under full load, and around 45C idling.
I spent the majority of yesterday evening overclocking my processor to what seems to be its limits. No. Seriously, I think I have reached the chipset max. I have managed to clock my processor to 2500MHz (185x13.5), and anything after that gives me blue screens or failed startups.
And now, I have a 3DMark (2003) score of 5673, and my processor now idles at 38C, and amazingly, only just reaches 50C under full load, even after an extra 400MHz added to the clock speed. It also gives me a pretty impressive FPS boost in CS:S. I used to get around 50fps, 35 lowest, now I have not seen it stray far under 50fps.
All in all, this cooler is a must buy for anyone seeking overclocking, without resorting to expensive water cooling. I will definitely be transferring this beast to my new rig (whatever that may be) or buying its equivalent in a new socket form.
I leave you with two (crappy) pictures of the cooler inside my case.
http://img29.exs.cx/img29/4972/Picture1129.jpghttp://img29.exs.cx/img29/5571/Picture1130.jpg
http://img50.exs.cx/img50/8007/Jet7ge_s.jpg
- Socket Type: Socket A, 370, 462
- Heat Sink Dimension: 74x60x40 mm
- Heat Sink Material: Copper base with Copper stacked fin
- Fan Dimension: Blower 80x80x80 mm
- Fan Speed: 1900-3500 rpm
- Fan Airflow: 12.0-22.1 CFM
- Fan Air Pressure 3.15-10.70 mm H2O
- Cost: £20 - Can you believe it?
Well, I convinced myself to fork the £20 out to buy one, and when it came, I was in for another surprise, this thing was huuuge, much bigger than I had assumed. At least 15cm tall.
After a short (30 minute) wrestle with the old heatsink and fan, I managed to escape with only 2 badly cut thumbs and a broken screwdriver. Nevermind, it was off. I cleaned my processor, an AMD barton xp2800+, and applied some high(ish) quality thermal compound (I couldn’t get any of the arctic silver stuff, I had to stick with 'GelL' compound or something - I don’t know, it was 5% copper and 5% silver and stained my hand like a bitch) Anyway, I smeared the paste on in a nice thin layer and then turned to the new cooler.
The bottom of the heatsink was perfectly flat, with a few light grooves in, where it had been machined down. All I had to do was rub in some thermal paste, and it couldnt have gotten any better.
I had the initiative to remove the jet from the actual heatsink section, to allow easy maneuvering onto the socket. Which proved a good idea, but still, because the heatsink section spreads out so it is a larger surface area at the top than the bottom, it was still very difficult to latch onto the rear clip, due to some badly placed capacitors in that region on my motherboard (Asus A7V600). One I got that clip in, the other one clipped in pretty easily, although the metal clip running through the heatsink is now bent, but I think that is the way it should be.
Anyway, once the heatsink was on, it was a simple (or not so simple) matter of lowering the screws on a magnetic screwdriver back down onto the jet module, and screwing it down. Unfortunately I could't find a magnetic screwdriver, and so turned to my oh-so trusty swiss army knife to screw the jet on, which proved to be a bad idea, as one screw escaped my grasp and fell behind the motherboard. Meaning the entire motherboard had to be unscrewed to find that one screw.
Once I had secured the jet onto the heatsink, I had another problem with power. Instead of clipping into the normal 3 pin connector on the motherboard, the Jet7 used a molex connector for power, of which I am very limited, and the 3 pin connector purely for the signal (yellow) wire to relay the current rpm. Once I had dug out a molex Y-Splitter (the passthrough cable supplied wasn't going to do anything) I had power.
The Jet7 also comes with a variable resistor, to alter the RPM of the fan, from slightly audible to 'is that your computer I can hear from downstairs Tom?'
It also comes with a 3.5" floppy bay connector, or a PCI plate connector. I opted for the PCI connector as my Arctic VGA Cooler's RPM switch is also located at the back of the machine. This was also pretty easy to connect. It just involved a bit of screwing (teehee), and it was in. The one problem I have however, is the plate, no matter how much I screw :rolleyes:, is still loose, and wobbles a bit when pressure is applied.
The idea of me getting this was to overclock a little to improve performances in Counterstrike:Source, and Doom3. I have a Sapphire Atlantis Radeon 9800pro, with an Arctic VGA cooler, which is clocked at 427/353, from the default 380/330. My processor was clearly bottlenecking this, and so I sought to overclock, using the best air cooler I could find.
This is precisely what this does, My processor (for those who weren't paying attention earlier, is an AMD barton xp2800+) was clocked at 2075MHz, and yielded 5119 3DMarks (2003), which is still a pretty nice result. And it ran at around 70C under full load, and around 45C idling.
I spent the majority of yesterday evening overclocking my processor to what seems to be its limits. No. Seriously, I think I have reached the chipset max. I have managed to clock my processor to 2500MHz (185x13.5), and anything after that gives me blue screens or failed startups.
And now, I have a 3DMark (2003) score of 5673, and my processor now idles at 38C, and amazingly, only just reaches 50C under full load, even after an extra 400MHz added to the clock speed. It also gives me a pretty impressive FPS boost in CS:S. I used to get around 50fps, 35 lowest, now I have not seen it stray far under 50fps.
All in all, this cooler is a must buy for anyone seeking overclocking, without resorting to expensive water cooling. I will definitely be transferring this beast to my new rig (whatever that may be) or buying its equivalent in a new socket form.
I leave you with two (crappy) pictures of the cooler inside my case.
http://img29.exs.cx/img29/4972/Picture1129.jpghttp://img29.exs.cx/img29/5571/Picture1130.jpg