PDA

View Full Version : [Tutorial] The BIG BIG guide for building a PC


Paradigm^
20-06-2008, 06:15 PM
There's been quite a few threads recently asking about PC building. This thread will (hopefully) guide you through the process; I also touch on upgrades in a couple of places. I can't promise I'll be able to keep it updated, so please bear in mind that the computer world changes very quickly and this post will become out-of-date very rapidly. For reference, I've written this on 20th June 2008.

HOW STUFF WORKS
This is a guide for the noobs. I'll keep it brief, since noobs shouldn't really be building PCs anyway ;) The main parts of a computer are:
Motherboard aka 'mobo' - The main board that everything plugs in to.
Processor aka CPU (Central Processing Unit) - The main chip that executes your programs and does funny things with all the 1s and 0s. This does a lot of work and gets quite hot, so it comes with a heatsink (a big lump of metal) to dissipate the heat. You might want to consider getting a better heatsink than the one that comes with the CPU (called the 'stock' heatsink), especially if you're going to try to get your CPU to run faster than it's supposed to (overclocking).
Memory aka RAM - An intermediate store between your hard drive and CPU. The CPU can access things in memory much, much faster than it can read from the hard disk, so stuff that gets used frequently gets temporarily stored in RAM. Think of it as the difference between having a bigger desk (more space for things you can grab close to you) and a bigger filing cabinet (which will allow you to store more stuff overall, but you need to get out of your chair to reach it).
Hard drive aka HD - The filing cabinet mentioned above. This is what actually stores everything on your computer. Stuff in RAM disappears when you turn your computer off; stuff on your HD stays there.
Graphics card - The graphics card offloads the graphics processing work from the CPU. This leaves the CPU free to do other things, like work out what that bad guy is going to do next. Graphics cards are very heavily specialised, so they push pixels blindingly fast. For this reason, they usually end up being the most expensive single component in any given system.
Power supply aka PSU - Supplies juice to your components.
Case / cooling - A box for your stuff to go in. Adding fans to the box helps draw cool air in and push hot air out. This is a good thing.

BUYING BITS

This section will go out of date quickly. If you're reading this in a year or more's time, any information here will probably be old and useless to you. Six months is a long time in terms of computer bits. While I'm going to give suggestions here (which applies now, as I write it), the best advice I can give is do your research. If you want to know which of two CPUs or graphics cards is better, type them both into Google next to each other and you'll very likely find some reviews, complete with benchmarks. Looking at the bar charts will tell you far more about which to buy than I will. I can't recommend this enough.

Processor
A fairly recent development in the techy world is the advent of multi-core processors. Basically, instead of one processor, you have two or four or more. They're still on a single chip though, so don't go out and buy four of the same processor, whatever you do!

If you're building a system or upgrading, you'll want at least a dual-core processor. As the name suggests, these have two processors on board. Depending on your budget, how long you want your new computer to last, and how extravagant you're feeling, you might want to go for a quad-core.

The two main companies that produce CPUs are AMD and Intel. There was once a time when AMD sold brilliant CPUs and had an awesome price/performance ratio for the majority of their chips. That's not the case any more. You want to go with Intel, and you specifically want a Core 2 processor. Anyone who tells you otherwise is lying.

Which exact Core 2 processor you get is very much down to your budget. Do be aware that the cheaper ones overclock very, very well, so if you're an advanced user you can save yourself a fair amount of money by buying a cheaper Core 2 and overclocking it. However, this takes some skill and you may end up frying your CPU (although that's less likely these days), so it's a bit of a risk. If you're going to overclock, you might want to think about getting a better heatsink, too, although the Core 2s tend to overclock pretty well on the stock cooler. Still, it's something to consider.

If you're rich and a bit crazy, you might be wondering whether to go for a quad-core Core 2. (For those without a basic grasp of the roots of English, Core 2 Duos are dual-core (two processors in one), and Core 2 Quads are quad-core (four processors in one).) Opinion is split on this. There's no doubt that having a quad-core is better for certain applications, and if you do lots of CPU-intensive work like video encoding it's a good buy. But programming for multiple cores is hard, and there's not really much around that will be able to take advantage of a quad-core machine. Even games, which generally try to stay at the bleeding edge of technology, often don't utilise all four cores as well as they could. Personally (at the time of writing), I would be tempted to spend the extra cash on an even better dual-core. But if you're rich and want to compensate for your tiny cock, feel free to go for a quad-core.

Memory
There's no arguing here. You want 2GB of RAM at the very least. This is a respectable amount of RAM for a modern system. However, RAM runs at different speeds, too, and you need to make sure that your CPU and motherboard can support these speeds, otherwise your Ferrari will eternally be stuck in residential 30mph zones. The latest craze (at the time of writing) is RAM that runs at the heady speed of 1333MHz. This is a bit faster than the more standard 1066MHz, but has the downside of entirely draining your wallet. If you're going to go for 1333MHz, you absolutely must get both a CPU and a motherboard that supports that speed, otherwise it'll run at the lowest speed of the three elements (CPU, RAM, and motherboard). I can't stress this enough. Similarly, I would recommend going for DDR2 RAM at the moment - very little supports DDR3 and it's hideously expensive.

Graphics card
There was once a time when a company called ATi sold brilliant graphics cards and had an awesome price/performance ratio for the majority of their chips. That's not the case any more. (Familiar story, anyone?) You want to go with a company called NVidia. ATi have now been taken over by AMD, so you'll find that your choices are between AMD and NVidia. If you're serious about gaming, go with NVidia. AMD's cards are about a generation behind NVidia's. If you're not too bothered, you might want to consider AMD. I'm going to assume you're after a mid-to-high end gaming machine - the typical machine that everyone wants to build for around £700. In that case, I have one piece of advice for you:

Buy an NVidia 8800GT.

It's a no-brainer. It offers the best price/performance ratio of any card on the market, and will cope with most things you throw at it admirably (excluding Crysis of course, but if you want to run Crysis at anything above a resolution of 320x240 you'd better be a billionaire). I really can't recommend it enough as a card - it's fantastic, and will last you a good few years. DO NOT be tempted to go a generation up and a series down and buy the 9600. It's not as good, and this is a general rule of thumb: an x800 is still better than an (x+1)600, despite the fact that the (x+1)600 is a generation ahead. As for the different models, very roughly speaking (and with plenty of exceptions): GTX > GT > GTS > GS. However, I reiterate my earlier advice: read reviews and look at benchmarks before making up your mind. Graphics cards vary hugely and the nomenclature is confusing. Don't fall into the trap of thinking more expensive is better - read reviews and find out for yourself.

But if you're after the easy option, just buy an 8800GT.

For those who are upgrading, a word of warning: if you have a particularly old computer (more than two to three years old), you may well bump into the AGP problem. A while ago, motherboard manufacturers started supplying a slot for graphics cards called PCI-Express. This is much, much better than the previous type of slot, called AGP. If you have an older computer, you may well have an AGP slot, and if you buy a PCI-Express card, it's not going to fit. Find out what type of slot you have and make sure you buy the right card. People do still manufacture AGP cards, but if your computer is that old, I'd seriously consider a new build.

In the next post: motherboards, power supplies, and how to put it all together.

Paradigm^
20-06-2008, 06:17 PM
Hard drive
They're all the same, right? Not quite. There are three issues to consider: size, speed, and connector.
Size - More jiggabytes is better. At the time of writing, you can buy a 500GB drive for around £55, and a 750GB drive for £85. The price per gigabyte sweet spot is usually in that range. I'd recommend considering buying two 500GB drives and putting one of them in an external enclosure for backup purposes. 500GB of data is a lot to lose.
Speed - Measured in rpm. For the love of God and all that is holy, don't go below 7200rpm. If you're rich and flamboyant, you will notice amazing performance games if you shell out for a 10,000rpm drive, but they are still very expensive.
Connector - Like graphics cards, hard drives come in two flavours - those with IDE connectors (old) and those with SATA connectors (new). If you're building a new computer, buy SATA - it's just plain better, and you don't have huge ribbons cluttering up the inside of your case. If you're upgrading an old computer, check to see if your motherboard has SATA connectors. It might not, so be careful.

Motherboard
There's some overlap here. The main challenge when you're buying a motherboard is to make sure you get one with all the right connectors. The list of pluggy things you need to get right is as follows:
CPU - Obviously, it needs to fit your CPU. Check the socket type of your CPU and make sure the motherboard supports it. Then go on the manufacturer's website and check again. Some motherboards will support newer CPUs, but only with a BIOS upgrade. You can't do a BIOS upgrade unless the motherboard supports the CPU that's plugged in. This can cause problems, and the only solution is to go and buy a second, cheap CPU just for the sake of doing the BIOS upgrade. This is a pain. Don't make the mistake - be very, very thorough in checking this.
Graphics card slot - AGP or PCI-Express. If you're an enthusiast gamer and are going with an NVidia card, you might want to try and get a motherboard that supports SLI. This allows you to put two graphics cards in your machine, for twice the power. If you're going to do this, make sure the motherboard says it's SLI compatible and make sure that both SLI slots run at x16. If they run at x8, you'll get half the speed. If you're not likely to plug in a second graphics card (and it has to be identical to the first for SLI), save your money. As a side note, AMD has a similar technology called CrossFire. It works slightly differently, and I'll leave you to look up the details. That's your punishment for not going with NVidia like I told you to. And have fun trying to find a CrossFire enabled motherboard.
Bus Speed - This is the 1333MHz RAM thing I was talking about earlier. Most modern motherboards will support 1066MHz; you'll have to pay more for one that supports 1333MHz.
Hard drive connector - IDE or SATA. A motherboard which supports SATA will be very likely to have some IDE connectors too, as most DVD drives still use IDE and not SATA (I'd recommend buying a SATA one though - they're the same price).

Motherboards tend to come with onboard 5.1 sound, so it's generally not worth getting an extra sound card if you're an audiophile. Do also consider how easy the motherboard will make overclocking for you, if you're interested in such things: many these days will allow you to skip messing around in the BIOS altogether and just do it from Windows. This is a Nice Thing. Finally, you might want to check for FireWire ports, if you're into camcorders or are an Apple fanboy.

Power Supply
First of all, you need to calculate how much power your system will use: Google "power supply calculator" and put in details of all the parts you're planning to buy. Use generous estimates. Then take the number it givse you and then add 100W. You want a power supply that will give you that much juice. This gives you room for expansion and a little overhead just in case. It's better to be over than under - if you don't have enough juice, your computer will be unreliable to say the least.

Secondly, make sure you buy a good power supply. Power supplies are often neglected, and this is bad, because a good power supply will last you a long time while being reliable and more efficient. A bad power supply will explode and possibly take your computer with it. It's worth paying more for a good power supply. Once you've found your wattage rating, find the most expensive power supply that gives you enough juice and then work downward to the highest point you can reasonably afford.

Bits and bobs
Other stuff you'll need are a DVD-RW drive (you can pick up a combi one for £15 or so), and a case. Choose your case carefully, depending on what sort of person you are. A good case will last you many, many builds, so it's worth splashing out for a good one. Your two main priorities should be noise and cooling. Quiet cases are expensive, but worth it - the sound of loud fans can be very distracting. All cases should at the very least have a fan at the front and a fan at the back, but the more fans the better. If you've got your heart set on a case and it doesn't come with any fans, you'll have to buy some. You might want to buy some extra fans anyway, so have a look at the spaces the case gives you for fans (it should say how many of each size fans are supported). Bear in mind that fans come in three sizes - 80mm, 90mm, and 120mm. Larger fans push more air through on each rotation, so they can spin more slowly and will therefore be quieter.

You might also want a wireless card if you're into the wireless networking shizzle. Again, make sure that the connector is supported by your motherboard. The majority of network cards are PCI, but there might be a few that run off PCI-Express. Check.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

Find a friend who's built a computer before and get them to go through it with you. It's fairly self-explanatory, and quite difficult to mess up - if it doesn't fit or snap into place, you're Doing It Wrong. I will assume you are not a complete retard and won't try to cut things up to make them fit. The motherboard manual will also walk you through installing most of the bits, and the manuals for individual components may also be useful (especially the CPU). I'd advise getting an anti-static wrist strap and connecting it to something earthed - the chances that you'll short something are fairly slim, but they're only a fiver. Finally, do expect injuries - I've never built a PC without inflicting some kind of minor nick or cut on myself. Have tissues handy just in case ;)

WHERE TO BUY
People have mixed experiences with individual online stores, so don't take this as gospel truth. Here's a list anyway:
www.ebuyer.co.uk I don't like ebuyer. Their returns policy is awful, and the courier they use is terrible. I really don't like their customer service.
www.scan.co.uk I love Scan. They're simple and cheap and generally have the best variety of components after ebuyer. I've never had trouble with any of their stuff.
www.overclockers.co.uk A touch more expensive than ebuyer and Scan, but a very solid choice. Recommended.
www.dabs.co.uk Often quite overpriced, poor customer service. Avoid if possible.
www.aria.co.uk I've not used Aria before, but I've heard good things.
www.amazon.co.uk Yes, Amazon sell (some) PC parts! And I have had nothing but good and wonderful things from Amazon - although watch out who you're buying from, as there's plenty of Amazon Marketplace stuff up these days. You'll get good service from Amazon directly, but I can't vouch for the companies who sell their stuff through them.

I think that covers most things. If you've got any suggestions for things to be included or have spotted a glaring error, feel free to let me know. I hope it helps.

Cheechy
20-06-2008, 06:31 PM
nice post I think, tldr.
Beware of the nightmares of taking a home built pc back to a shop. Whilst not discouraging people from trying n doing it yourself - These days it can work out better buying prebuilt. If you're doing it to save money - check on exactly how much you'll be saving etc.

Worth pointing out - that some places like microdirect offer great value for components (as do Scan + others) but places like MD will charge you to test any components that don't work etc (refunded if found faulty).

Nuclear Spoon
20-06-2008, 06:40 PM
So a motherboard comes with the USB/Ethernet ports yes?

Also must spread more rep.

Cheechy
20-06-2008, 06:44 PM
Depends on the mobo.
Safe to say if you're buying something new 95% chance it will come with USB ports on there with connections for more generally.

Slightly lower percentage it will include an ethernet port on it, but most do.

Just read the specs - they all say.

Paradigm^
20-06-2008, 06:45 PM
Worth pointing out - that some places like microdirect offer great value for components (as do Scan + others) but places like MD will charge you to test any components that don't work etc (refunded if found faulty).Fair point. I've added a section on online stores - people can contribute and suggest to beef it up.
So a motherboard comes with the USB/Ethernet ports yes?Practically guaranteed.

Nuclear Spoon
20-06-2008, 06:47 PM
I was also recently directed to www.pcspecialist.co.uk, though I don't know much about them, apart from that they will build a PC for you to your specifications. However, there are some limitations to this, i.e. you have to select a PC from a certain category, ruling out some combinations of components.

Gonk
20-06-2008, 06:56 PM
Thanks, Para, might check out costs for parts and build one

Also: Sticky this thread please, Cheechy?

Wahoo
20-06-2008, 11:44 PM
with the amazon marketplace stuff, you can generally pick from multiple suppliers to get certain items. Just pick the ones who have loads of good reviews.

The Grim Reaper
20-06-2008, 11:49 PM
Hope you're ready to keep updating this thread if you're going to name specific products. Perhaps you'd like to seperate that section out at the bottom or something?

The ATI 4850 just came out, its coming in dirt cheap and apparently it beats a 9800GTX, definitely rips through an 8800GT. More cards are on their way within a week or so.
If nvidia stops being such dicks about their intro prices, a pricewar shall start very soon.

Paradigm^
21-06-2008, 01:08 AM
Hope you're ready to keep updating this thread if you're going to name specific products.Maybe. I've put the date there so people can tell, at the very least.

The ATI 4850 just came out, its coming in dirt cheap and apparently it beats a 9800GTX, definitely rips through an 8800GT. More cards are on their way within a week or so.We'll see what the reviews say in a month or two; I'd rather keep this thread free of fanboyism and speculation. The 8800GT remains a very solid choice for the time being, at least.

The Grim Reaper
22-06-2008, 12:25 AM
Maybe. I've put the date there so people can tell, at the very least.

We'll see what the reviews say in a month or two; I'd rather keep this thread free of fanboyism and speculation. The 8800GT remains a very solid choice for the time being, at least.

Sure as hell this isn't speculation (http://www.guru3d.com/article/amd-ati-radeon-hd-4850-review-force-3d--powercolor/)
Check the COD4/Crysis (http://www.guru3d.com/article/amd-ati-radeon-hd-4850-review-force-3d--powercolor/11) benchmarks on the first benchmark page if you want to see what i mean.

Although the 8800GT is still a great card, and slightly cheaper than this one. I'm certainly no fanboy, i've owned several of both brands. But i wont continue, don't really want to turn this into a debate.

MargateMan
22-06-2008, 09:37 AM
Can I just add that www.misco.co.uk is another good place to buy parts from, and very reasonably priced!

Martinus
22-06-2008, 03:10 PM
Top-tip: If you're about to buy a new motherboard (it's best not to get a bleeding edge design (i.e. version 1.0)) go to google search and type in 'modelnumber + issues/not working/broken/problem' and the like. if you see a lot of hits and recurring issues then avoid or wait until (if?) they fix the issue.

Lots of v1.0 mobo's have new drivers and firmware with bugs so if you can put it off it might be worth it.

Dick Champion
22-06-2008, 04:56 PM
Pretty solid guide there. Kudos.

I would add that, whilst you can get extremely cheap non-brand RAM at the moment, it is really not a good idea; reliability is far more important than price. OCZ and Corsair are the best bets at the moment - It's definitely worth a little extra for these. ~£30 for 2GB DDR2 is a good reference. Also, it's not worth shelling out for DDR3 yet, as the extra performance doesn't show.

piemastermike
22-06-2008, 05:38 PM
kingston is also a good brand that is usually very reliable without being massively expensive.

Paradigm^
22-06-2008, 05:48 PM
Also, it's not worth shelling out for DDR3 yet, as the extra performance doesn't show.Crap, I didn't mention DDR3? *fixes*
kingston is also a good brand that is usually very reliable without being massively expensive.Agreed - I usually end up buying Kingston RAM. They occupy the nice point between being too expensive and too shit.

Tiggs
27-06-2008, 01:14 PM
Your graphics card recommendation could do with an update as ATI have released the 3850 and 3870 cards and they beat everything by nvidia in that price bracket and sometimes even manage to beat nvidia's very top end cards.

Review here (http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3341&p=1), probably best to skip all the stuff about the chip architecture and go straight to the game benchmarks which are really quite hard to argue with

Paradigm^
27-06-2008, 01:21 PM
Your graphics card recommendation could do with an update as ATI have released the 3850 and 3870 cards and they beat everything by nvidia in that price bracket and sometimes even manage to beat nvidia's very top end cards.I can't promise I'll be able to keep it updated, so please bear in mind that the computer world changes very quickly and this post will become out-of-date very rapidly.

<snip>

This section will go out of date quickly...while I'm going to give suggestions here, the best advice I can give is do your research. If you want to know which of two CPUs or graphics cards is better, type them both into Google next to each other and you'll very likely find some reviews, complete with benchmarks. Looking at the bar charts will tell you far more about which to buy than I will. I can't recommend this enough.This is my disclaimer and I'm sticking with it. I've already said that the specifics will go out of date very rapidly, and I don't have the time or energy to keep it constantly updated based on the latest developments.

This is a general guide to be used as an introduction and a set of tips, not the gospel truth and the official recommendation by anyone about anything. I went to great pains to say "this will change over time" and "do your research yourself"; if you're trying to use it for up-to-the-minute recommendations, you're doing it wrong.

Sorry for the harsh tone, but I want to put my foot down and say that this thread is a one-off: I do not have the time to constantly read reviews, correlate scores, get an idea of the mainstream opinion, comparisons between various cards, and stay on top of the bleeding-edge. I'm not prepared to put in that level of effort in order to maintain it. By all means use the thread to talk about the latest developments in the PC world, but don't expect me to spend my life attempting to keep the first post updated. (I've now updated the first post to clarify this.)